| Message |
New ABS Sensors run $900. Here is some background info from TTNet that I consolidated: The Anti-Lock warning light is similar to the check engine light. It activates at speeds over 8mph. It indicates that the control unit is receiving an error code. To locate the problem, find the ABS control unit (behind passenger seat, under the plastic cover). You should be able to see an LED on the unit.
Drive the car for at least one minute at above 19mph (30kmh)to trigger the self diagnosis mode. The ANTI-LOCK light should come on (if there's a fault) and the LED will flash the code for the problem. Keep the car running. The codes are:
1 left front actuator solenoid circuit
2 right front actuator solenoid circuit
3 or 4 rear actuator solenoid circuit
5 left front rotor sensor circuit
6 right front rotor sensor circuit
7 right rear rotor sensor circuit
8 left rear rotor sensor circuit
9 actuator motor, motor relay circuit
10 actuator solenoid valve relay
16 control unit
warning activates and LED "off" : power supply or ground circuit for control unit
Codes flash like ECU diagnostics, 1-2 sec flashes with 1-2 sec intervals between them. After up to 10 seconds w/out flashing, codes will flash again. Drive the car for more than 1 minute at over 19mph (30kmh) to get out of the diagnostic mode. If you fixed the problem code, ANTI-LOCK light should not come on next time you get the Z over 8mph.
==================================================================================================
You first need to do a visual inspection of the brake system; check the fluid, see if the ABS sensor connections were knocked out of place, check clearances of ABS sensors. If all that checks out ok, you need to do an ABS control unit diagnostic. In my 2+2, the control unit is behind the panel that the rear right passenger's arm would rest on. To do the test, you have to drive at least 19 mph for a minute, and then stop with the engine running, and count the flashes from the LED on the control unit. This just means the anti lock function of your brakes is not working. Now u just have regular brakes instead. My light came on because the anti lock braking system wasn't getting enough power to work correctly. I had my battery cables replaces and no problems now. Hope this helps. As for the antilock light, you may just have crud on the sensors, or one of the sensors may have a loose wire. If just one is a little wacky, the light comes on and the whole system shuts down. Mine did that and then fixed itself. I do not know why it was on, but it was.
As for the dimness, all I can think is to clean your battery terminals with baking soda/water combo to make sure the connections are really good. If that doesn't help, you may have an alternator that is starting to go. Get it checked out before you get stuck somewhere.
Probably one of the wheel sensors – often the fronts. The connecting wire running to the wheel hub can break due to up/down movement over many years. Sensor + harness come together - plug and play. The broken wire causes the ABS error light to come and go - mine did it when making right turns (go figure).... I put one used sensor from a parts car on my driver side front - ran me maybe $50? Here's one on eBay: [ [ http://compare.ebay.com/like/171112610773?var=lv ] ] Not sure what new ones cost? Takes maybe 1 hour to replace it, wheel off, undo old one install new one. Pretty easy job. I would guess the wire harness could be repaired too?
: |
 |
